Sponsored by DRYLOK

Transforming a Damp Workshop: A DIY Guide to Waterproofing Concrete Block Walls with DRYLOK

For many homeowners, a split-entry design house, with its lower level partially below grade, presents a unique set of challenges. My own home fits this description perfectly, featuring concrete block walls in the lower level that extend from the foundation up to the stud walls. While the design offers great utility, it also comes with a common adversary: moisture. For years, my workshop, located in this below-grade section, has battled a persistent moisture problem. This isn’t just an inconvenience; the dampness actively corrodes my valuable tools, making effective waterproofing not merely an option but a critical necessity.

Each spring, the tell-tale signs of water infiltration become visible. Damp spots appear on the concrete block walls, often accompanied by occasional wet patches on the floor where it meets the wall. As the warmer, drier months of summer approach, these damp areas often recede, leaving behind an unsightly white, powdery residue known as efflorescence. This past spring, despite my efforts to regrade the garden beds surrounding the house – a measure that offered some minor relief – the damp spots persisted. It was at this point that I decided it was time to take a definitive, proactive step to address the issue head-on.

Determined to find a lasting solution, I partnered with UNITED GILSONITE LABORATORIES (UGL), the reputable manufacturers of the DRYLOK range of waterproofing products. UGL generously supplied me with their highly regarded DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer, DRYLOK Fast Plug hydraulic cement, and essential DRYLOK Brush products. The DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer, a latex-based waterproofing paint, stood out as the ideal choice for my specific problem: sealing porous concrete block walls in a below-grade environment. My objective was clear: meticulously prepare and waterproof the affected area in my workshop to create a dry, protected space. Below, I’ll detail the precise steps I took to achieve this transformation.

Why Effective Basement Waterproofing is Crucial for Your Home

Before diving into the “how,” it’s essential to understand the “why.” A damp or wet basement is more than just an annoyance; it can lead to a cascade of problems that impact your home’s integrity, your health, and your wallet. Concrete block, while robust, is inherently porous, making it susceptible to water penetration from the surrounding soil. This is especially true for below-grade areas where hydrostatic pressure can push moisture through the smallest openings.

One of the most immediate concerns is the potential for structural damage. Consistent moisture can weaken mortar joints over time, compromise the integrity of your foundation, and even lead to cracks if not addressed. Beyond the structure, the presence of moisture creates an ideal breeding ground for mold and mildew. These fungi not only produce an unpleasant, musty odor but can also release spores that trigger allergic reactions, respiratory issues, and other health problems for your family. For a workshop like mine, moisture translates directly into rusted tools, damaged equipment, and ruined materials, rendering the space unusable for its intended purpose.

Furthermore, a damp basement negatively impacts your home’s energy efficiency. High humidity levels mean your heating and air conditioning systems have to work harder to maintain comfortable temperatures, leading to higher utility bills. It also diminishes your property value, as prospective buyers are often wary of homes with known moisture issues. Investing in effective waterproofing, particularly with proven products like DRYLOK, is an investment in your home’s longevity, your family’s health, and your peace of mind.

The DRYLOK System: A Comprehensive Approach to Moisture Control

Addressing basement moisture effectively requires more than just a quick fix; it demands a systematic approach. This is where the DRYLOK product line truly shines, offering a tailored solution for various stages of water infiltration. For my project, the combination of DRYLOK ETCH, DRYLOK Fast Plug, and DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer created a robust, multi-layered defense against moisture.

DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer: This flagship product is a latex-based formula specifically engineered to penetrate and seal porous masonry surfaces. It forms a durable, waterproof barrier that can withstand up to 10 PSI of water pressure, making it ideal for below-grade applications where hydrostatic pressure is a concern. Its latex base ensures easy application and clean-up, along with excellent adhesion and flexibility, allowing it to move slightly with the wall and resist cracking.

DRYLOK Fast Plug: For active leaks, cracks, or gaps, a standard sealant simply won’t do. DRYLOK Fast Plug is a hydraulic cement that sets rapidly – typically within 3-5 minutes – even under hydrostatic pressure. Its unique formulation expands as it dries, creating a watertight seal that literally stops running water. This was essential for sealing the gap where my floor met the wall, a common entry point for moisture.

DRYLOK ETCH: Proper surface preparation is paramount for the successful adhesion and performance of any waterproofing product. DRYLOK ETCH is a non-corrosive, biodegradable etching solution designed to clean and prepare masonry surfaces. It effectively removes efflorescence, dirt, grease, and other contaminants, creating an ideal profile for the waterproofer to bond with.

Together, these products form a powerful system that not only stops existing leaks and moisture but also provides long-term protection, ensuring a dry and healthy environment for any below-grade space.

Step-by-Step Waterproofing: My Experience with DRYLOK

Embarking on this waterproofing project, I meticulously followed the manufacturer’s instructions, understanding that each step contributes significantly to the overall success and longevity of the application.

1. Surface Preparation: The Foundation of Success

The cardinal rule of any painting or waterproofing project is thorough surface preparation. Skipping this crucial step often leads to poor adhesion and premature failure of the coating. My primary task was to eradicate all traces of efflorescence and ensure the concrete block walls were clean and receptive to the DRYLOK waterproofer.

Understanding and Removing Efflorescence

Efflorescence is that unsightly white, powdery deposit that forms on masonry surfaces. It’s not mold, but rather a crystalline salt residue that leaches out of the concrete as water infiltrates the wall and then evaporates. If not removed, efflorescence can prevent proper adhesion of any coating, leading to peeling and flaking. To tackle this, I turned to DRYLOK ETCH.

Safety was my first priority. Donning heavy-duty rubber gloves and eye protection, I prepared the solution by diluting DRYLOK ETCH according to the instructions on the bottle. Using a stiff-bristle brush, I vigorously applied the solution to the efflorescence-laden blocks. The etching solution works by chemically cleaning the surface, neutralizing the salts, and providing a slightly roughened profile that aids in adhesion. After allowing the solution to work for the recommended time, I thoroughly rinsed the entire surface with clean water, ensuring all traces of the etchant and dissolved salts were removed. It’s critical to allow the wall to dry completely before proceeding to the next step, as any residual moisture can compromise the subsequent application.

Inspecting and Repairing Cracks and Gaps with DRYLOK Fast Plug

Once the walls were dry, I conducted a meticulous inspection for any holes, cracks, or gaps in the concrete blocks and, critically, along the vulnerable juncture where the blocks meet the concrete floor. Even the smallest hairline crack can be a significant pathway for water. My inspection revealed a noticeable gap at the floor-wall joint, a common entry point for hydrostatic pressure to force water into the space.

This is where DRYLOK Fast Plug hydraulic cement became indispensable. Following the mixing instructions, I prepared a small batch. The key is to achieve a consistency that is thick enough to hold its shape but pliable enough to be forced into cracks. To facilitate precise application, I loaded the mixed cement into a sturdy sandwich bag. I then snipped a small corner of the bag, effectively creating a makeshift piping tool. This allowed me to squeeze the Fast Plug directly and deeply into the gap, ensuring it filled the void completely. Immediately after application, I smoothed the surface with my gloved finger, pressing the cement firmly into place. The rapid-setting nature of DRYLOK Fast Plug means it begins to cure almost immediately, expanding slightly to create a strong, waterproof seal. I allowed it to cure for a full 24 hours to ensure maximum strength and waterproofing integrity before proceeding.

2. Applying DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer: Creating the Impermeable Barrier

With the surface thoroughly prepared and any cracks sealed, it was time for the main event: applying the DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer. This step is about creating a continuous, impenetrable barrier that prevents water from migrating through the porous concrete block.

First Coat: Penetrating the Pores

Due to the inherent porosity of concrete blocks, simply rolling the paint on isn’t enough; the product must be forced into every microscopic pore to create an effective seal. The instructions specifically recommend using a stiff nylon bristle brush or a 3/4-inch-nap roller for this reason. Given the relatively small section of wall I was working on for the first coat, I opted for the stiff brush. This allowed me to exert significant pressure, effectively scrubbing the DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer into the concrete’s texture. I worked in manageable sections, ensuring even and thorough coverage, making certain that the product penetrated deeply into the block. This first coat is critical for establishing the initial waterproof layer and ensuring maximum adhesion to the masonry. After application, I allowed the first coat to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s guidelines, which typically takes several hours depending on humidity and temperature.

Second Coat: Reinforcing the Seal and Ensuring Uniformity

Once the first coat was dry to the touch, I applied the second coat. For this coat, I switched to a 3/4-inch-nap roller, which allowed for faster and more even application over the now partially sealed surface. While the roller is efficient, it’s still important to apply adequate pressure to push the product into any remaining surface irregularities. The purpose of the second coat is to build up the film thickness, ensuring that any areas potentially missed or thinly covered by the first coat are adequately protected. This layer significantly reinforces the waterproofing barrier.

Addressing Pinholes and a Potential Third Coat

After the second coat had dried, I conducted a meticulous inspection of the entire wall for any “pinholes.” These tiny, unsealed spots appear as minuscule depressions where the waterproofer didn’t fully penetrate or cover a pore. Each pinhole represents a potential weak point in the waterproof barrier where moisture could eventually seep through. Using the stiff brush, I carefully dabbed and worked additional DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer into each identified pinhole, ensuring a complete seal.

If, during this inspection, I had found numerous pinholes across a large area, it would have been a strong indicator that I might have been spreading the product too thin or too fast during the previous coats. In such cases, the manufacturer recommends applying a liberal third coat. The goal is to achieve a continuous, unbroken film that effectively seals the entire surface. Forcing the product into every pore is paramount to creating a truly impermeable barrier against water penetration.

Beyond the Application: Long-Term Moisture Management

While the internal application of DRYLOK provides a robust barrier against moisture, a holistic approach to moisture management often yields the best long-term results. Consider these complementary strategies to maintain a dry and healthy basement environment:

• Exterior Grading: Ensure the ground around your home slopes away from the foundation at a minimum of 6 inches over the first 10 feet. This directs rainwater away from the foundation, reducing the amount of water saturating the soil near your basement walls.
• Gutters and Downspouts: Regularly clean your gutters to prevent clogs, and ensure downspouts extend at least 5 to 10 feet away from the foundation. This prevents large volumes of water from pooling directly against your house.
• Dehumidifiers: Even with waterproofed walls, basements can still experience higher humidity due to cooler temperatures and natural ground moisture. A good quality dehumidifier can help maintain optimal indoor humidity levels, preventing musty odors and inhibiting mold growth.
• Regular Inspection: Periodically inspect your basement walls and floor for any new cracks, damp spots, or signs of efflorescence. Early detection allows for prompt action, preventing minor issues from escalating.

Anticipating a Dry Future

With the DRYLOK Masonry Waterproofer now fully applied and cured, I eagerly await the next significant rainfall. The DRYLOK system is renowned for its ability to stop water penetration effectively, and I am confident that my meticulously prepped and coated workshop walls will stand strong against the spring dampness. This project has transformed a frustrating, moisture-prone space into a dry, protected environment where my tools can thrive, and I can work without concern.

For any homeowner grappling with damp concrete block walls in their below-grade areas, the DRYLOK system offers a powerful, DIY-friendly solution. The meticulous preparation and application process, while requiring effort, yields significant returns in terms of protecting your home, health, and belongings. Say goodbye to damp spots and efflorescence, and reclaim your valuable basement space.

– Rick Muscoplat, Contributing Editor

This is a sponsored conversation written by me on behalf of UGL. The opinions and text are all mine.